Miloli'i
Usually referred to as the last remaining fishing village on the island,
Miloli'i is just past the 89 mile marker. Miloli'i-This active fishing village s approximately 15 miles south of Pu'uhonua O Honaunau. Again, look for signs to spur road off Rt. 11 heading makai. The road leading through bleak lava flows, is narrow but worth the detour. Miloli'i (Fine Twist) earned its name from times past when it was famous for producing 'aha, a sennit made from coconut-husk fibers; and olona, a twine made from the olona plant and mostly used for fishnets. This is one of the last villages in Hawaii where traditional fishing is the major source of income and where old-timers are heard speaking Hawaiian. Fishermen still use small outrigger canoes, now powered by outboards, to catch opelu, a type of mackerel that schools in these waters. The method of catching opelu has remained unchanged for centuries. Boats gather and drop packets of chum made primarily from poi, sweet potatoes, or rice. No meat is used so sharks won't be attracted.
The Miloli'i Beach County Park is a favorite with local people on the weekends; camping is allowed by permit. Tents are pitched in and around the parking lot, just under the iron-woods at road's end. Notice that a number of tents appear to be semi-permanent. There are flushing toilets, a basketball court, and a brackish pond in which to rinse off, but no drinking water, so bring some. Swimming is safe inside the reef and the tide pools in the area are some of the best on the south coast. In the village, a small, under stocked store is operated by Willie Kaupiko, though the whole family pitches in.
* Big Island of Hawaii by
Robert Nilsen
Outboards may have replaced canoe paddles, but the fishermen still net opelu, or mackerel, on the shallow waters, making Miloli'i one of the few villages that has survived to modern times. The rocky inlet just north of Miloli'i Beach Park is where a cultural center is being developed to teach and preserve the old ways.
This effort was furthered in 2003 with the launch and blessing of a traditional canoe, the first such ceremony in 85 years. A cultural event of a different nature took place at the shack that sits above the inlet, when Elvis filmed his 1962 bomb, Girls,Girls,Girls!, And more recently, Hawaii's singing legend, the late Israel (Iz) Kamakawiwo'ole staged one of his last concerts in this hamlet. Near the picnic pavilion is yellow Hauoli Kamanao, the little church with big mana that hosts cultural events. In the 1980s, locals were able to convince backers of a resort complex to stay away from quiet Miloli'i.
* Hawaii The Big Island Trailblazer by
Jerry & Janine Sprout
Honomalino Bay
Ask most people who live here where Honomalino is, and they'll probably tell you it's on Maui. This lovely black-and-white sand beach is not well known. It's 100 yards or so long, backed by scads of coconut trees, decent swimming when calm (which is often), usually deserted, and a 20-minute walk from your car. Though one of the larger south Kona beaches, it eroded considerably during the 20th century (as black sand beaches naturally tend to do, and will probably be mostly a memory a hundred years or so from now.
To get there, start at Miloli'i Beach Park. Go to the end of the road, and you'll see bathrooms and a yellow church (Hauoli Kamanao Church). The public access is between them. (A left fork is private property; the right fork is yours.) If it's high tide, you'll get your feet wet near the beginning. Don't be intimidated by the dizzying array of Keep Out and No Tresspassing signs at the trailhead. About 3-4 minutes into the trail after some tide-pools and a palm-backed spit of sand, reacquire the trail at the back part of the sand and continue south for 15 minutes. There may be a few fallen trees to hop over. The snorkeling on the right side of the bay is interesting when calm in the cluster of rocks. There is a small cave there where a 6-foot white-tipped reef shark often rests. Don't worry, he's not a man eater-yet. If you plunge your hand into the sand at the water's edge at the south end of the beach, the sand's cold. That's freshwater (called a basil spring) percolating into the sand from below.
* Hawaii The Big Island Revealed by
Andrew Dougherty, Harriette Friedman
A 20-minute walk from Miloli'i leads to an exceptionally picturesque coconut-lined bay called Honomalino. It's usually deserted and worth the walk. Miloli'i Beach Park-located 30 miles south of Kailua-Kona, this is considered a very local beach. This community beach sports a thatched pavilion used by local bands playing outstanding Hawaiian music on weekends and holidays. There's not much sand, but the surfing is good, and the facilities are well-developed. Take the winding, paved road just south of the 89 mile marker. Drive slowly at the end of the road, and watch for local kids.
* Hawaii The Big Island Revealed by
Andrew Dougherty, Harriette Friedman
